VANCOUVER — Cheese sticks and a bagel. A boiled egg with raw broccoli. A fat ball of burrata cheese sitting atop a pile of green grapes.

溫哥華——奶酪條和百吉餅。一個(gè)煮雞蛋配生西蘭花。一大塊布拉塔奶酪放在一堆綠葡萄上。

Welcome to the divisive world of "white people food," a movement that has exploded in popularity among Chinese Canadian communities, both as an internet hashtag and lifestyle philosophy.

歡迎來(lái)到“白人食品”的分裂世界，這個(gè)運(yùn)動(dòng)在加拿大華人社區(qū)中迅速流行起來(lái)，成為了一個(gè)互聯(lián)網(wǎng)的標(biāo)簽和生活哲學(xué)。
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At its core are depictions of simple — some might say depressing — meals. Plain, often raw, and devoid of sauces and flourish, the meals are a source of bafflement for some but inspiration for others.

這個(gè)運(yùn)動(dòng)的核心是對(duì)簡(jiǎn)單（有人可能說(shuō)令人沮喪）的餐食的描繪。這些餐食通常樸實(shí)無(wú)華，常常生食，不加調(diào)料，沒(méi)有繁復(fù)的裝飾，對(duì)一些人來(lái)說(shuō)是令人困惑的，但對(duì)另一些人來(lái)說(shuō)則是靈感之源。

It echoes the recent Chinese social movement to "lie down flat.” A rejection of the relentless pace of the so-called 996 lifestyle, working 9 a.m. to 9 p.m., six days a week, that was once seen as an essential ingredient of Chinese success.

這與最近的中國(guó)社會(huì)運(yùn)動(dòng)“躺平”相呼應(yīng)。這是對(duì)所謂的996工作制的拒絕，這種工作制曾被視為中國(guó)成功的重要組成部分，每天從早上9點(diǎn)工作到晚上9點(diǎn)，一周工作6天。

University of British Columbia sociology professor Amy Hanser said the "white people food" movement symbolizes a mindset shift among younger Chinese, and a counter to a life of long toil.

不列顛哥倫比亞大學(xué)社會(huì)學(xué)教授Amy Hanser表示，“白人食品”運(yùn)動(dòng)象征著年輕華人的心態(tài)轉(zhuǎn)變，對(duì)長(zhǎng)期勞累的生活形式形成了反思。

“It's not about the pleasure of eating the texture of the food. It's just like: 'this is good fibre and lots of nutrients and I'm going to eat it,' and I think that is actually a very American way of thinking about eating," said Hanser, whose research centres on work, gender and contemporary China.

她的研究主要集中在工作、性別和當(dāng)代中國(guó)方面。她說(shuō)：“這與享受食物口感的快樂(lè)無(wú)關(guān)。這只是：‘這是一種好的纖維和豐富營(yíng)養(yǎng)，我要吃掉它’。我認(rèn)為這實(shí)際上是一種非常美國(guó)化的飲食方式?！?/b>

A typical lunch box for Vancouver resident and "white people food" fan Shawn Liang consists of a boiled egg, fresh broccoli, a slice of ham, cheese and a piece of whole-grain bread.

溫哥華居民、也是“白人食品”迷的梁Shawn的午餐盒通常包括一個(gè)煮雞蛋、新鮮的西蘭花、一片火腿、奶酪和一片全麥面包。

He said in an interview in Mandarin that he once would have found such a meal difficult to swallow. Now he can't live without it.

他在接受采訪時(shí)用普通話表示，以前他可能很難接受這樣的餐食。現(xiàn)在他離不開(kāi)它了。

Liang, who immigrated from Beijing six years ago, said cooking Chinese food can be time-consuming, labour-intensive and pricey.

梁Shawn六年前從北京移民到加拿大，他說(shuō)烹飪中國(guó)食物耗時(shí)、勞力和昂貴。

“Unfortunately, young people are always broke, overworked and don't have time," said Liang.

他說(shuō)：“不幸的是，年輕人總是一貧如洗、過(guò)勞，并且沒(méi)有時(shí)間?！?/b>

A lunch box of crackers and cold cuts might not sound worthy of fanfare, but University of British Columbia graduate student Lesley Pen recently shared a photo of the meal on social media with the Chinese-language "white people food" hashtag. She says she "fell in love" with such fare.

一盒餅干和冷切肉并不像是值得炒作的餐食，但不列顛哥倫比亞大學(xué)研究生Lesley Pen最近在社交媒體上使用了中文的“白人食品”標(biāo)簽分享了這頓飯的照片。她說(shuō)她“愛(ài)上了”這樣的餐食。
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“Compared with traditional Chinese cuisines, which usually require lots of stir-frying, heavily relying on rich seasonings and sauces — white people food doesn't need any of these,” said Pen, a Richmond, B.C., resident who is majoring in food and environment, and economics.

她正在學(xué)習(xí)食品與環(huán)境經(jīng)濟(jì)學(xué)專(zhuān)業(yè)，是一位居住在卑詩(shī)省里士滿市的居民。她說(shuō)：“與通常需要大量炒菜、嚴(yán)重依賴濃郁調(diào)料和醬汁的傳統(tǒng)中國(guó)菜相比，白人食品不需要這些?！?/b>

“As a new immigrant who lives on my own and needs to juggle school and work, I find these meals are so simple and convenient to make,” Pen said in Mandarin, adding that they are also a dietary choice.

她用普通話表示：“作為一個(gè)獨(dú)自生活、需要平衡學(xué)業(yè)和工作的新移民，我發(fā)現(xiàn)這些餐食簡(jiǎn)單方便?！彼a(bǔ)充說(shuō)，這也是一種飲食選擇。

Pen said that "white people food" was a vague concept, but in essence meant keeping meals as “effortless and waste free” as possible.

Pen表示，“白人食品”是一個(gè)模糊的概念，但實(shí)質(zhì)上是盡可能地保持餐食“輕松和無(wú)浪費(fèi)”。

Yi Gu, an associate professor at the Department of History at the University of Toronto, said many Chinese in the “l(fā)ying flat generation” have turned toward self-care, given up demanding jobs, focused more on simple joys in life, and rejected excessive consumption.

多倫多大學(xué)歷史系副教授Yi Gu表示，許多“躺平一代”的中國(guó)人轉(zhuǎn)向自我照顧，放棄苛刻的工作，更專(zhuān)注于生活中的簡(jiǎn)單樂(lè)趣，并拒絕過(guò)度消費(fèi)。

But she said the white people food movement could also be about the relatively high costs of a cooked business lunch.

但她說(shuō)，“白人食品”運(yùn)動(dòng)也可能與烹飪商務(wù)午餐的相對(duì)高成本有關(guān)。

The concept is not new, but there has been a wave of Chinese-language discussion about "white people food" around the world since a video of a woman eating a bag of lettuce and slices of ham on a train in Switzerland sparked wonder. The video went viral on the Chinese-language social media platform Red Book last month.

這個(gè)概念并不新鮮，但自從一個(gè)在瑞士火車(chē)上吃生菜和火腿片的女子的視頻在中國(guó)社交媒體平臺(tái)“小紅書(shū)”上引起了轟動(dòng)后，全球范圍內(nèi)關(guān)于“白人食品”的中文討論就一發(fā)不可收拾了。

The initial response to such meals was bewilderment.

對(duì)于這樣的餐食的最初反應(yīng)是困惑。
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"I have tried baby carrots dipped in hummus. They made me feel worse than death," wrote one person on Red Book.

小紅書(shū)上有人寫(xiě)道：“我嘗試過(guò)蘸著鷹嘴豆泥吃胡蘿卜條。那簡(jiǎn)直比死還難受。”

But the mood has shifted to praise for low-effort meals.

但情緒逐漸轉(zhuǎn)向?qū)@種低投入餐食的贊揚(yáng)。

Eva Wu, who works for a global tech company in Vancouver, said she's a fan.

溫哥華一家全球科技公司的員工Eva Wu表示自己是一個(gè)粉絲。

“Here's the best part: these lunches are actually good for you and won't leave you snoozing at your desk,” said Wu, whose lunch usually consists of yogurt, a cheese stick and a tinysandwich.

她說(shuō)：“最好的是，這些午餐實(shí)際上對(duì)你有益，不會(huì)讓你在辦公桌上打瞌睡?！彼奈绮屯ǔ０ㄋ崮?、一根奶酪條和一個(gè)小三明治。

But Wu doesn't call her meals "white people food," saying it sounds “overly generalized and racist.” Instead, she calls them “l(fā)ocal-style light lunches.”

但Eva Wu并不稱呼自己的餐食為“白人食品”，她認(rèn)為這聽(tīng)起來(lái)“過(guò)于籠統(tǒng)和種族主義”。相反，她稱之為“當(dāng)?shù)仫L(fēng)格的簡(jiǎn)便午餐”。

Tammara Soma, an assistant professor at the School of Resource and Environmental Management at Simon Fraser University, agreed the term could be potentially offensive.

西蒙菲莎大學(xué)資源與環(huán)境管理學(xué)院的助理教授塔Tammara Soma表示，這個(gè)術(shù)語(yǔ)可能具有冒犯性。

However, Soma said the trend could also be understood as a way of “reclaiming the sarcasm” to show different cultural perspectives, since people from non-white cultural backgrounds are sometimes teased about their food being "odd and exotic."

然而，Soma表示，這一趨勢(shì)也可以理解為一種“重新拿回諷刺”的方式，展示不同的文化視角，因?yàn)榉前兹宋幕尘暗娜擞袝r(shí)會(huì)被取笑他們的食物“奇特和異國(guó)情調(diào)”。

“It’s kind of like the opposite response to the fact that non-white people’s food has generally been stereotyped,” said Soma.

索瑪說(shuō)：“這有點(diǎn)像對(duì)非白人食物普遍被刻板化的相反回應(yīng)。”

Hanser, the sociologist, said there is a clear Chinese generational change at play. Some in older generations had high expectations for themselves and thrived in a competitive environment, while some younger Chinese now prefer to follow their heart.

Hanser這位社會(huì)學(xué)家表示，這其中有一個(gè)明顯的中國(guó)年輕一代的變化。一些年長(zhǎng)一代人對(duì)自己有很高的期望，并在競(jìng)爭(zhēng)激烈的環(huán)境中取得了成功，而一些年輕的華人現(xiàn)在更愿意跟隨自己的內(nèi)心。

“The younger generation is willing to try different things, experiment and see how they feel. There is a kind of openness to new experiences that goes with this trend as well,” said Hanser.

她說(shuō)：“年輕一代愿意嘗試不同的事物，進(jìn)行實(shí)驗(yàn)并看看自己的感受。這一趨勢(shì)也伴隨著對(duì)新體驗(yàn)的開(kāi)放心態(tài)。”

Richard Tang, a Vancouver TV camera operator, says he has been eating fresh fruits and vegetables for lunch for five years.

溫哥華電視攝影師理Richard Tang表示他已經(jīng)連續(xù)五年午餐都吃新鮮水果和蔬菜。

But Tang said in an interview in Mandarin that he made his simple meal “as multicultural as Canada” by including a clay-oven roll, a Chinese-style bread with sesame seeds.

但唐在接受普通話采訪時(shí)說(shuō)，他通過(guò)添加一個(gè)帶芝麻的中國(guó)式陶爐面包，使他簡(jiǎn)單的餐食“多元文化如同加拿大”。

“It’s baked by my wife with love as the ingredient,” chuckled Tang. “Parking my car in a quiet neighbourhood, enjoying my lunch and listening to a podcast — it's the loveliest time of my day.”

唐笑著說(shuō)：“這是我妻子用愛(ài)作為成分烘焙的?！薄皩⑽业能?chē)停在一個(gè)安靜的社區(qū)，享受我的午餐并聽(tīng)廣播——這是我一天中最美好的時(shí)光?！?/b>

This report by The Canadian Press was first published June 16, 2023.
This story was produced with the financial assistance of the Meta and Canadian Press News Fellowship.
Nono Shen, The Canadian Press

這篇報(bào)道由The Canadian Press）2023年6月16日首次發(fā)布。
得到了Meta和Canadian Press News獎(jiǎng)學(xué)金的資助。