美國的中餐館越來越少了，但中餐館的老板們卻說，這是件好事。

Chinese Restaurants Are Closing. That’s a Good Thing, the Owners Say.

2019-12-29 騎著毛驢到處走 35563 157 4 收藏糾錯&舉報

譯文簡介

買下紐約哈德遜谷的中餐館Eng’s （餐館名）40多年后，湯姆·薛(Tom Sit)終于不情愿地開始考慮自己的退休事宜了。

正文翻譯

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KINGSTON, N.Y. — More than 40 years after buying Eng’s, a Chinese-American restaurant in the Hudson Valley, Tom Sit is reluctantly considering retirement.

買下紐約哈德遜谷的中餐館Eng’s （餐館名）40多年后，湯姆·薛(Tom Sit)終于不情愿地開始考慮自己的退休事宜了。

For much of his life, Mr. Sit has worked here seven days a week, 12 hours a day. He cooks in the same kitchen where he worked as a young immigrant from China. He parks in the same lot where he’d take breaks and read his wife’s letters, sent from Montreal while they courted by post in the late 1970s.

在人生的大部分時間里，薛先生每周七天、每天12個小時在這里工作。
自年輕時從中國移民美國以來，他一直在這個廚房做飯。他的車泊在同一個停車場，小憩的時候，他曾在那里讀未婚妻從蒙特利爾的來信，那是20世紀(jì)70年代末，他們還是異地戀。
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Two years ago, at the insistence of his wife, Faye Lee Sit, he started taking off one day a week. Still, it’s not sustainable. He’s 76, and they’re going to be grandparents soon. Working 80 hours a week is just too hard. But his grown daughters, who have college degrees and well-paying jobs, don’t intend to take over.

兩年前，在妻子費(fèi)伊·李·薛(Faye Lee Sit)的堅(jiān)持下，他開始每周休假一天。盡管如此，他也不可能永遠(yuǎn)干下去。他76歲了，而且他們很快就要當(dāng)外祖父母了。每周工作80個小時太辛苦。但已經(jīng)成年的女兒們都有大學(xué)學(xué)位和高薪工作，她們無意接手餐館。

Across the country, owners of Chinese-American restaurants like Eng’s are ready to retire but have no one to pass the business to. Their children, educated and raised in America, are pursuing professional careers that do not demand the same grueling labor as food service.

在美國各地，像Eng’s這樣的中餐館的老板們都在準(zhǔn)備退休，但后繼乏人。他們的子女在美國長大，接受了高等教育，從事的職業(yè)不需要像食品服務(wù)業(yè)這樣累人的勞動。

According to new data from the restaurant reviewing website Yelp, the share of Chinese restaurants in the top 20 metropolitan areas has been consistently falling. Five years ago, an average of 7.3 percent of all restaurants in these areas were Chinese, compared with 6.5 percent today. That reflects 1,200 fewer Chinese restaurants at a time when these 20 places added more than 15,000 restaurants over all.

據(jù)餐館點(diǎn)評網(wǎng)站Yelp的最新數(shù)據(jù)，美國前20大城市的中餐館數(shù)量一直在下降。五年前，這些城市的所有餐館中平均7.3%是中餐館，而現(xiàn)在只有6.5%。這意味著，在這20個城市總共增加了1.5萬多家餐館的同時，中餐館卻減少了1200家。

Even in San Francisco, home to the oldest Chinatown in the United States, the share of Chinese restaurants shrank to 8.8 percent from 10 percent.

即使在舊金山，這個美國最古老的唐人街所在地，中餐館的比例已從10%下降到了8.8%。

And at the same time, the percentages of Indian, Korean and Vietnamese restaurants — many of which were also owned and operated by immigrants from Asian countries — are holding steady or increasing nationwide.

人們對中餐的興趣似乎并沒有減退。在Yelp上，中餐館的平均瀏覽量并沒有下降，平均評分也沒有下降。與此同時，印度餐館、韓國料理和越南餐館的比例——其中許多也由亞洲國家的移民擁有和經(jīng)營——在全美范圍內(nèi)保持穩(wěn)定或略有增長。

The restaurant business has always been tough, and rising rents and delivery apps haven’t helped. Tightening regulations on immigration and accounting have also made it harder for cash-based restaurants to do business.

餐飲行業(yè)一直很難做，不斷上漲的房租和外賣應(yīng)用軟件更是雪上加霜。
美國政府對移民的收緊以及對財務(wù)的嚴(yán)格審計，也使這些依賴現(xiàn)金交易的中餐館更難以為繼。

But those are not Chinese-restaurant-specific factors, and do not explain the wave of closings. Instead, a big reason seems to be the economic mobility of the second generation.

但這些都不是中餐館最大的困難，相反，中餐館慢慢消退的一個很重要的原因，似乎是第二代華人的經(jīng)濟(jì)流動性導(dǎo)致的。

“It’s a success that these restaurants are closing,” said Jennifer 8. Lee, a former New York Times journalist who wrote of the rise of Chinese restaurants in her book “The Fortune Cookie Chronicles” and produced a documentary, “The Search for General Tso.” “These people came to cook so their children wouldn’t have to, and now their children don’t have to.”

“中餐館減少的趨勢，反映出一段成功的故事，”珍妮弗·8·李(Jennifer 8. Lee)說，她曾是《紐約時報》記者，曾著書《幸運(yùn)餅干編年史》(The Fortune Cookie Chronicles)，該書講述中餐館在美國的興起，還制作了一部名為《尋找左宗棠》(The Search for General Tso)的紀(jì)錄片?！霸缙谌A人移民在美國落腳后開中餐館，為的是后代不不在干這份辛苦差事，現(xiàn)在他們的子女都不以此為生?！?/b>
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The retirements of the restaurant owners also reflect the history of Chinese immigration to the United States. In 1882, the Chinese Exclusion Act halted what had been a steady rise in people coming from China. It was not revoked until 1943, and large-scale immigration resumed only after 1965, when other race-targeting quotas were abolished.

中餐館老板的退休也折射出華人移民美國的歷史。
1882年的《排華法案》(Chinese Exclusion Act)阻止了中國移民的穩(wěn)步增長。這個法案直到1943年才被撤銷，其他針對華人族裔的配額在1965年被廢除后，大規(guī)模的移民才得以恢復(fù)。
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China’s Cultural Revolution, an often violent social and political upheaval that started in 1966, prompted many young people to emigrate to the United States, a country that projected an image of freedom and economic possibility.

.......移民到給人以自由和經(jīng)濟(jì)可能性的美國。
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Mr. Sit left Guangzhou, in southern China, in 1968. He hiked, climbed and swam his way to Hong Kong, filling his pants with pine cones as an improvised flotation device.

薛先生于1968年離開了中國南方城市廣州。他一路翻山越嶺，最后靠游泳來到香港，他在褲腿里塞滿松果，權(quán)當(dāng)漂浮裝置。
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“There was just no future,” he said. “The only way to get freedom and to get a good job was to go to Hong Kong.”

“那時沒有未來，”他說?！矮@得自由和找到好工作的唯一途徑就是去香港?！?/b>
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In 1974, he immigrated to the United States and started working at Eng’s, which opened in 1927. Although he had never worked in a restaurant, the heat from the woks was much less intense than what he experienced at a Hong Kong plastics factory where he had worked.

1974年，他移民美國后開始在中餐館Eng’s工作，這家中餐館創(chuàng)辦于1927年。盡管他此前從未在餐館工作過，但炒菜鍋的灼熱遠(yuǎn)不及他在香港一家塑料廠工作時所經(jīng)歷的。
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Unlike Mr. Sit, some immigrants had been chefs in China. They served Hunan and Cantonese foods on linen tablecloths to bejeweled, curious diners at places like Shun Lee Palace in New York.

與薛先生不同的是，有些移民在離開中國前當(dāng)過廚師。在紐約順利宮餐館(Shun Lee Palace)這樣的地方，他們烹飪的湘菜和粵菜能端上鋪著亞麻桌布的餐桌，為佩戴珠寶的好奇食客享用。
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“There was the golden age of Chinese cooking in America, starting in the late 1960s and early 1970s,” said Ed Schoenfeld, a restaurateur and chef who has worked in Chinese restaurants since the ’70s. “We started getting regional practitioners of fine regional cuisine to come to this country and do their thing.”

“美國曾有過一個中餐烹飪的黃金時代，那是在20世紀(jì)60年代末70年代初，”餐館老板兼廚師艾德·舍恩菲爾德(Ed Schoenfeld)說，他自20世紀(jì)70年代起就一直在中餐館工作。“從那時開始，我們有了中國地方菜系的廚師來美國做中國地方菜?！?/b>
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Mostly, though, the newly minted chefs cooked quickly and cheaply. They adapted their method of cooking to American tastes, developing dishes like beef chow fun, fortune cookies and egg drop soup, often brought home in the signature takeout containers.

不過，大多數(shù)情況下，新掌勺的廚師靠的是快速和價格便宜的烹飪。他們根據(jù)美國人的口味作出調(diào)整，推出了干炒牛河、幸運(yùn)餅干和蛋花湯等菜肴，人們通常把這些菜裝在中餐特有的外賣盒里帶回家吃。
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“They were not precious,” Ms. Lee said. “These people did not come to be chefs; they came to be immigrants, and cooking was the way they made a living.”

“這些菜最大的特點(diǎn)是制作簡單，”李女士說?！斑@些人來美國不是為了當(dāng)廚師；他們是移民，烹飪只是他們謀生的方法。”
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Other immigrant groups follow a similar pattern. With social mobility and inclusion in more mainstream parts of the economy, the children of immigrants are less likely than their parents to own their own businesses.

其他移民群體也有類似的經(jīng)歷。移民子女因社會流動性和包容性進(jìn)入更主流的經(jīng)濟(jì)領(lǐng)域后，他們做相同工作的可能性比父母要低。
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“In some ways, the children are regaining the status of the first generation that they have lost while migrating,” said Jennifer Lee, a professor of sociology at Columbia University and co-author of “The Asian American Achievement Paradox.” (She is not related to Jennifer 8. Lee.) “The goal has never been to continue those businesses.”

“從某種意義上來說，這些子女在恢復(fù)其父母作為第一代移民時應(yīng)得的地位，”哥倫比亞大學(xué)社會學(xué)教授珍妮弗·李(Jennifer Lee)說，她是《亞裔美國人成就悖論》(The Asian American Achievement Paradox)的合著者“第二代華人的目標(biāo)從來都不是繼承父業(yè)?！?/b>
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In the past decade, some members of the second generation have also chosen to take charge of family restaurants. Nom Wah Tea Parlor, a New York dim sum restaurant that opened in 1920, has stayed a family business: first run by the Choy family, then the Tangs.

不過，在過去十年里，第二代中的個別人還是選擇了接管家庭餐館。1920年開業(yè)的紐約早茶館南華茶室(Nom Wah Tea Parlor)一直是家庭生意：先由蔡家，后來是鄧家經(jīng)營。
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The 41-year-old owner, Wilson Tang, left a career in finance to succeed his uncle in 2011. Initially, his parents balked at his decision.

南華茶室現(xiàn)在的老板是41歲的鄧偉，他在2011年離開了金融業(yè)，接手了叔叔的生意。起初，他的父母不贊成他的這個決定。
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“As immigrants, it’s the only thing you can do; if it’s not restaurants, it’s a laundromat,” Mr. Tang said. “For me to choose to go back to owning a restaurant? That was tough for them to accept.”

“作為移民，你只能干這行；如果不是開餐館，就是自助洗衣店，”鄧偉說?！拔一剡^頭來選擇開餐館？這讓他們很難接受?！?/b>
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Since then, Nom Wah has expanded: to another Manhattan location, to Philadelphia and to Shenzhen, China. On any given night, groups of guests wait for a table outside the Chinatown location for up to an hour, huddled in the bend of Doyers Street.

自他接手以來，南華茶室開始了擴(kuò)張：除了在曼哈頓開了另一家分店外，還在費(fèi)城以及深圳開了分店。每天晚上，成群結(jié)隊(duì)的客人擠在坐落于宰也街(Doyers Street)拐角的這家唐人街本店門外，要等一個小時才能吃上。
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“I had this unique opportunity to preserve something that was from old New York,” he said. “I still work extremely hard. But I also know how to use marketing tools, like the internet.”

“我有這樣一個獨(dú)一無二的機(jī)會，來保存老紐約的一些東西，”他說?！拔胰栽诜浅ＥΦ毓ぷ鳌５乙仓廊绾问褂脿I銷工具，比如互聯(lián)網(wǎng)?！?/b>
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In a parallel effort, the team behind Junzi Kitchen, a fast-casual Chinese restaurant chain based in New York, recently raised $5 million to research and buy places like Eng’s, rebranding them with Junzi’s modern take on the cuisine.

此外，還有另一群人在嘗試讓中餐館繼續(xù)生存下去。
總部設(shè)在紐約的中式休閑快餐連鎖店君子食堂(Junzi Kitchen)，最近籌集到了500萬美元，用于研究和收購像Eng’s這樣的餐館，將它們重塑為“君子”品牌下的現(xiàn)代中餐館。
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“They are still going to have their usual beloved Chinese takeout services, but we are providing an upgraded version of that,” said Yong Zhao, the founder and chief executive.

“它們將繼續(xù)提供通常受人喜愛的中餐外賣服務(wù)，但我們正在升級這種服務(wù)，”君子創(chuàng)始人兼首席執(zhí)行官趙勇說。
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But family-run Chinese restaurants are typically not being passed to the next generation. Some may close up shop, sell their businesses to other first-generation immigrants or move on and see their former storefronts become something else entirely.

但家庭經(jīng)營的中餐館如今通常不會傳給下一代。有些餐館可能會關(guān)閉，把生意賣給其他新加入美國的第一代移民，或開始新生，開始做一些新的嘗試。
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Mr. Sit has not yet found the right person to run the restaurant, and has no immediate plans to close. “To take over Eng’s, you have to keep the heart in Eng’s,” he said. “You need to have a loyalty to the business, not just someone who thinks, ‘I’ll make one year, two years of money, I don’t care.’”

薛先生還沒有找到經(jīng)營餐館的合適人選，目前也沒有立刻關(guān)門的計劃。
“接管Eng’s的人必須對它全心全意，”他說?！拔蚁胍欠N忠誠生意的人，而不是那種‘我用賺它一兩年錢，賺夠錢拍屁股閃人’的人?！?/b>
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Ms. Sit feels more ready to retire than her husband. Normally talkative, he can be evasive whenever the family tries to bring up a successor.

薛女士比她的丈夫更愿意退休。平日善于言談的她，在聊起中餐館的繼承人時卻總是閃爍其詞。
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“They’ll have to work hard,” she said, her eyes sparkling as she teased her husband, “l(fā)ike Tom Sit. Maybe then he’ll let them take over.”

“他們得努力干活，”薛女士說者，眼睛里閃爍著光芒，一邊揶揄丈夫，“要像薛先生那樣拼命工作。也許那時他會讓他們接管?！?/b>
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If he ever actually does hand Eng’s to someone else, Mr. Sit will miss his customers, and miss running an operation.

如果薛先生真的把中餐館交給別人，薛先生可能會想念他的老食客們，想念在中餐館忙碌的日子。
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CC
Thank you for this article. My parents came to the California from just outside of Guangzhou in the 80s. They were over 18 and were too old for high school. Instead they started working in a Chinese restaurant immediately upon arrival. When he was young, my father never considered the restaurant industry, but once in the US, that was the only option. He worked six days a week for 10-12 hours/day. I rarely saw him because of his work hours, but I remember he''''''''d come home late and always stop by my room to give me a kiss on the cheek as I slept.
In the beginning of his career, he washed dishes. Eventually, he moved his way up. For years he would come home late but stay up carving carrots, daikon, etc. into flowers, monks, dragons, etc. for big dinner parties. He became very passionate about cooking, and is now a chef and specializes in sauces. He would work six days a week at one restaurant, then save his days off to work at another restaurant.

謝謝你的文章。我的父母80年代從廣州來到加州。他們那時已經(jīng)超過了18歲，已經(jīng)不能上高中了。
所以，他們一到美國就開始在一家中餐館工作。在我父親年輕的時候，他從未考慮過餐飲業(yè)，但一旦到了美國，這是唯一的選擇。
他每周工作6天，每天工作10-12小時。因?yàn)樗α耍液苌倌芤姷剿?，我記得他每次回家都很晚，他總是在我入睡的時候到我房間里來吻我的臉頰。
他最先是從洗盤子開始的，然后一步一步往上爬，最后，他爬了上去。
但唯一不變的是，他一直都很晚回家。
為了準(zhǔn)備大型晚宴，他會熬夜把胡蘿卜、大蘿卜等雕刻成鮮花、僧侶、龍等造型。
他對烹飪充滿了熱情，他現(xiàn)在是一名正式的廚師，擅長做醬汁。他每周會在一家餐廳工作六天，然后把剩下的時間用來在另一家餐廳工作。
我出生在南加州，并在那里長大，我常常對此感到悲傷，因?yàn)槲覀円患覐奈从邢竦湫偷摹懊绹彝ァ币粯由钸^，比如夏天沿著公路旅行或度假游。
但我從父親身上學(xué)到了勤奮和毅力。我是家里第一個上大學(xué)的人，現(xiàn)在是一所常春藤盟校的教授。我的父母非常自豪，他們的旅程和艱辛得到了回報。
但我更佩服他們，并為他們敢于拋下一切，在一個新的國家嘗試打拼的勇氣感到自豪。

Serene
I’ve often described myself as generation 1.5, born in China but raised in the US from a young age. I’m not quite a first generation immigrant like my mom, but also not quite second generation. I wonder about the correlation vs causation to this article’s argument of restaurant numbers and Chinese-American social mobility.
But, it wonderfully captures the spirit of the Chinese-American immigrant experience (including my own). The incredible work ethic of older generations, which they’ve often passed down to younger generations, have helped fulfill many an American dream. Mr. Sit and his generation have much to be proud of.

我常說自己是“1.5代”移民，我出生在中國，但從小在美國長大。
我不像我媽媽那樣是第一代移民，但也不完全是第二代移民。
我想知道這篇文章中餐館數(shù)量和華裔美國人社會流動性之間的相互關(guān)系和因果關(guān)系。
但是，這篇文章很好地地捕捉到了華裔美國移民(包括我自己的經(jīng)歷)的經(jīng)歷與精神。
老一輩人令人難以置信的工作道德，幫助他們實(shí)現(xiàn)了美國夢，他們也將之傳給年輕一代。薛先生和他這一代人有很多值得驕傲的地方。

Keith
I being a child of Chinese immigrants am glad to see that more and more Chinese restaurants will close in the near and distant future. Second, Third, and Fourth generation Chinese Americans have zero interest in working in the restaurant business of which we perceived as being low class, uneducated, foreigner status oriented labor. Moreover, we are sick and tired over answering questions from non-Chinese folks about what''''''''s this and that on the menu! Just search for the answer on Google or Wikipedia!

作為一個中國移民的孩子，我很高興看到越來越多的中餐館將在不久的將來關(guān)閉。
第二、第三和第四代華裔美國人對在餐館工作毫無興趣，我們認(rèn)為餐館是低階層的、沒受過教育的、第一代外國移民勞工才會干的事。
此外，我們也不想一遍又一遍地向非華人解釋菜名！煩!為什么不直接在谷歌或維基百科上搜索答案呢？

CA
Thank you for this article, which resonated with me because I am a second-generation Chinese American whose father ran a Chinese restaurant on Long Island starting in the 1960s. He put me to work there during the summers when I was a teenager and it was the best life lesson he taught me - I saw how hard he and his co-workers worked all day, 7 days a week. I saw how he had to deal with all the customers ranging from the nicest ones to the you-know-whats. And that''''''''s exactly what he wanted me to see so that I wouldn''''''''t have to go through what he had to do to achieve ''''''''the American Dream''''''''. Thanks to him and my mother, they were able to save enough money to send me and my siblings to college (this was when it was still affordable for working ''''''''middle-class'''''''' families without having to go into student loan debt) so that yes, we could eventually go on to get that ''''''''professional'''''''' career. When I got my PhD years later, my father said to me, "They call you ''''''''Dr.'''''''' now?? No kidding!" He was so proud of me. But I am the one who''''''''s also proud...of my father who did all he could to help us make it in this country. Thank you, Dad.

謝謝你的這篇文章，它與我產(chǎn)生了共鳴，因?yàn)槲沂堑诙A裔美國人，我的父親從20世紀(jì)60年代開始在長島經(jīng)營一家中餐館。
我十幾歲那年的夏天，他讓我在那里工作，這是他給我上的最好的一課——我看到他和他的同事們一周七天，一天到晚地辛勤工作。我看到了他如何應(yīng)付所有類型的顧客，從最好的到你能想象到的最爛的。這正是他想讓我看到的，這樣我就不必再經(jīng)歷一遍他為實(shí)現(xiàn)“美國夢”所忍受的一切。感謝他和我的母親,他們能夠節(jié)省足夠的錢送我和我的兄弟姐妹上大學(xué)(我們負(fù)擔(dān)得起學(xué)費(fèi),而不必背負(fù)學(xué)生貸款債務(wù))。幾年后我拿到博士學(xué)位時，我父親對我說:“我們現(xiàn)在得叫你‘博士’了?”
沒有開玩笑!”他為我感到驕傲。但我也是一個為他感到驕傲的人…我的父親盡其所能幫助我們一家在這個國家取得成功。謝謝你,爸爸。

P. S. Ho
This story is the story of our family. My parents brought their family of six, soon to be seven, from Hong Kong to this country in 1962. After a couple years, we settled in Harrisburg, PA, where my father worked in the kitchen of a cliched “polynesian” restaurant/bar. Eventually, my parents opened their own “chinese” restaurant business that grew to two restaurants and a small grocery store. It would have been easy for any of the children to take over the family business, all of us having worked in the business over the years. Instead, we ventured off to earn five bachelors, an M.S., three Ph.D.s, and a J.D. degrees. We became teachers, lawyers, scientists, managers, and homemakers—essentially becoming fully integrated into the American culture.

講一講我們家的故事。1962年，我的父母帶著一家六口從香港來到這個國家，我們那時還不到七歲了。幾年后，我們定居在賓夕法尼亞州的哈里斯堡(Harrisburg)，我父親在一家老店“波利尼西亞”餐廳/酒吧的廚房里工作。
最后，我的父母開了自己的“中國”餐館，后來發(fā)展成兩家餐館和一家小雜貨店。對任何一個孩子來說，接手家族餐館都很容易，我們所有人都在自家餐館工作了多年。相反，我們幾個一共獲得了五個學(xué)士學(xué)位，一個理學(xué)碩士學(xué)位，三個（哲學(xué)系）博士學(xué)位，一個法學(xué)博士學(xué)位。我們四個分別成為了教師、律師、科學(xué)家、經(jīng)理和家庭主婦——基本上完全融入了美國文化。
原創(chuàng)翻譯：龍騰網(wǎng) http://nxnpts.cn 轉(zhuǎn)載請注明出處

Helen
@P. S. Ho I wish this were the case. I grew up in an Irish family - my grandparents escaped the famine. But my mother constantly berated me for working hard in school - I think she saw it as British/Protestant behavior. I now have a graduate degree and a good job; my mother still disapproves. Across my brother and sister, there is alcoholism and criminal behavior. Encouraging the next generation to do better resonates in some ethnic groups, but not all.

我在一個愛爾蘭家庭長大——我的祖父母逃過了愛爾蘭大饑荒。但是我的母親經(jīng)常因?yàn)槲以趯W(xué)校努力學(xué)習(xí)而斥責(zé)我——她認(rèn)為這是英國人/新教徒的行為。
我現(xiàn)在有了一個研究生學(xué)位和一份好工作;我母親對此仍然不置可否。在我的兄弟姐妹中，都有酗酒和犯罪行為。華人移民總是鼓勵下一代做得更好，這在一些種族群體中產(chǎn)生了共鳴，但不是所有人都認(rèn)同。

Eddie Lew
This is such an American story. Each wave of immigrants suffered indignities and hardships, yet so many crawled out of the morass of intolerance to become mainstream Americans. They stitched themselves into the American fabric and we are richer for it.

這篇文章是一個典型的美國式成功故事。事實(shí)上，每一波新美國移民都經(jīng)歷了各種屈辱和艱辛，一些人成功了，但大部分人還在泥沼中掙扎。每一代移民用血淚史把自己縫進(jìn)了美國社會，美國正是靠著這些移民才變得更加富有。

美國中餐 中餐館 老板

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美國的中餐館越來越少了，但中餐館的老板們卻說，這是件好事。

美國的中餐館越來越少了，但中餐館的老板們卻說，這是件好事。